Whereas the Namib Desert is known for its shapely dunes, Damaraland is all about the rocks.
We leave Swakopmund this morning and turn away from coast, driving northeast into Damaraland. We don’t have many kilometers to cover today, so we can take it slow.
Just under two hours from Swakopmund is the Spitzkoppe, rising slowly from the horizon as we approach. Its granite massifs are jagged and the color of rust.
As day visitors, we pay 60 NAD per person (About $5) to explore the park at Spitzkoppe independently. It’s a relatively compact site so you can see the best of it in under two hours.
You can alternatively book a local guide at the welcome center for a two hour private tour for just 60 NAD more. Some places inside the park are only accessible with a guide, so this is a great value.
Many people also choose to stay overnight here, either at the campground or in the nearby Spitzkoppen Lodge. The campsites are rustic with pit toilets, but the setting is incredible. The night sky as a backdrop to the rocks and mountains here would be stunning.
As for me, I’m worn out from yesterday’s exploration of Sandwich Harbour and our flight in a retro Cessna (that still had ash trays in the armrests). So I’m happy that no major hiking is required to enjoy the scenery here.
Spitzkoppe is a natural playground – giant granite boulders in any arrangement and shape you can think of.
Rocks balanced on top of rocks, balanced on top of rocks.
Rocks that look like lips.
This little tree slowly breaking the rockface with its roots.
And the most spectacular sight here, the rock arch that naturally frames the mountains beyond.
It doesn’t even look real.
But it is real! And also hot.
After spending a couple of hours in the sun, I’m ready to get on the road toward our overnight stop.
Back in the truck, we head north on the D1930, which is in great shape for a D road. It takes us just about 90 minutes to reach our cottage in Uis, a tiny town near the Mt. Brandberg Nature Reserve.
Our home for the night is the Daureb Isib B&B which turns out to be the best bargain of the trip. For just about $100 we get a private cottage overlooking the Daureb Isib campsite and tea garden, and beyond that an unencumbered view of the Brandberg, the highest mountain in Namibia.
We have access to a pool for cooling off and lounge chairs on the porch. Plus a friendly dog to keep us company.
There is plenty to see in this area if you’re up for it, like the Twyfelfontein petroglyphs, but we enjoy our downtime here, as well as the sunset over Brandberg.
Our room’s welcome book has a flier advertising a homemade chicken curry dinner, delivered to our cottage by the chef. Oh yes, thank you.
In the morning, breakfast is served at the Cactus Coffee & Tea Garden.
As much as I’d like to sit amidst the cactus and succulents in the garden, we have a long way to drive to get to Etosha National Park, the final leg of our trip.
Continue to the last Namibia post, days 10-12.
Or go back to the Introductory Post.
