How To Do a Road Trip to Niagara Falls & Toronto from Philly This Winter

I’m starting this weekend off with a quick visit to Centralia, a ghost of a mining town in central Pennsylvania. In 1962 a coal mine fire started underground here and has been burning ever since. Other than a couple of houses still occupied by steadfast residents, most of the buildings in the town were condemned and torn down long ago. I poke around a bit, spot the few places where smoke from the underground smolder puffs up. The old driveways are full of weeds and lead to empty lots. Signs warning of poisonous gases are dotted around the hillside. The most interesting bit of exploration is behind the cemetery at the top of the hill, Old Route 61. This abandoned highway is now giant slabs of cracked and tilted asphalt, absolutely covered in graffiti. I spent a diverting half an hour checking out all of the art, most of which is bad, but all of which is colorful and makes for fun photos.

After leaving Centralia, I continue north into New York and toward Canada. By dinnertime, I’m in Niagara Falls, which seems a little lifeless. Not to worry, I’m here to treat myself to a swanky hotel room at a fraction of the high season price. I booked a falls view suite at the Four Points by Sheraton WITH in-room Jacuzzi for around a hundred bucks. Totally worth it. The kitschy mini-Vegas feel of the town is not my style, but the falls are certainly gorgeous. Have a boozy bubble bath with a great view. In the morning, take a walk by the falls and then get coffee at Tim Horton’s because you’re in Canada, eh?

The Canadian side of the falls in November.

Leaving the Tim Horton’s drive-thru, it’s an easy 90 minutes to Toronto. First stop is St Lawrence Market, housed in a beautiful Victorian building. There is a parking garage right across the street that you can leave your car at all day while you walk or take taxis/buses/Uber/Lyft around the city.

The market is bustling and full of eye candy and great people watching. Food is the name of the game here so get breakfast and browse around for fun stuff to bring home.

You’ve got to visit the CN Tower because this is one of the better views you’re going to get in any North American city. The geometry of the city buildings next to the blue expanse of Lake Ontario is stunning. I loved seeing the shadow of the tower on the buildings below. And the glass floor section! It took me a few minutes and a bloodstream full of adrenaline before I finally walked out on it. Watch other terrified folks work up their nerve to do the same, some crawling on their hands and knees as the 1100 feet of empty space looms below them.

You can buy tickets locally or on the CN Tower website if you like. While there, check out the Edge Walk option. This is insane. You walk out on to a ledge attached to the tower by some straps and carabiners. If you’ve ever wanted to lean in to the call of the void, go right ahead with this. As of today, it’s about $250.

As my mother would say, “I’m not afraid of heights; I’m afraid of depths.”

Food again. I was on a budget weekend so my dining was not of the fine variety. But it was fancy – the Fancy Frank’s Gourmet Hot Dogs location on Queen Street was just a few minute walk away from the CN Tower. I had the Franks Got Seoul with Korean beef ribs, kimchi and scallions. Just around the corner from Frank’s is Graffiti Alley.

A world apart from the splash of color on Old Route 61, Graffiti Alley has some jaw dropping individual pieces of art to admire. But what makes this place so special is how all of it comes together to create an immersive experience in color, shape and architecture. A kilometer of backalley is the canvas – brick walls, metal garage doors and wooden door frames are all part and parcel to this vibrant co-creation. Look at it from different angles and perspectives, pick out the unique styles and take tons of photos. Then come back some other time to see what’s changed.

After the drive back to Niagara Falls, have a relaxing soak in the Jacuzzi before bed. In the morning, take another walk by the falls before heading home.

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